The kitchen by the river

Gentle rice soup simmered in prawn stock, river prawns, young ginger and crispy garlic.

Folded street-style omelette heavy with crab meat, served over jasmine rice with Sriracha.

Whatever the morning boat brought: mango, pomelo, rose apple and lime-chilli salt.

Crisp-edged khanom krok off the brass pan, coconut cream still warm from the griddle.

Two eggs from Nakhon Pathom, grilled tomato, pork sausage and toast from the corner bakery.

Single-origin arabica roasted in Chiang Rai, brewed slow at the pier counter.

Charred rice noodles folded with tamarind and wrapped in an egg net, one grilled river prawn on top.

Five-hour short rib in massaman curry, roasted peanuts and pickled cucumber.

Whole tilapia packed in salt and lemongrass, grilled over charcoal, three dips.

Charcoal chicken thigh in green curry, Thai eggplant and sweet basil, roti on the side.

Yam som-o: pomelo, toasted coconut, dried shrimp and a lime dressing that bites back.

Wok-blistered morning glory with yellow bean, garlic and a whisper of chilli.

Hot-sour broth with river prawns, straw mushrooms and young galangal.

Nam dok mai mango, coconut sticky rice and salted coconut cream.

The house cocktail: Thai rum, tamarind, palm sugar and lime, stirred over one big cube.

Cold-steeped lemongrass and pandan over crushed ice, barely sweet.

Old-market chrysanthemum tea, brewed every morning, honey optional.

Ice-cold bottle with a lime wedge, best at sunset.